There’s nothing like going home and surfing your home break. You get to surf waves you’ve grown up knowing, see familiar [and usually unchanged] faces, and go back in time a little bit [when life was a little simpler.]
I got to hang out with my rad Hawaiian-Aussie sisters and surf fun.. and I mean fun Honoli’i waves. And barely any one out! I don’t really have a board back home [transporting can be quite pricy and I don't really see the point in leaving a perfectly good log where it barely gets used] so the lifeguards let me borrow one of their wavestorms. My bread and butter! Hahha. Top off the day with a smoothie and Lilikoi cheesecake from Island Naturals and you’ve got yourself typical day in Hilo!
It is so nice to go home and get a refresher.. get back to what’s real.. feel grounded. There is something very special about that place. Will I ever move back?? Who knows. But spontaneous, weekend getaways are just enough to keep me motivated for the other weeks spent elsewhere.
Home sweet Honoli’i. Where the waves are fun and the rain reigns.
x
