(Photos by: TR)
There have been several swells rolling in and I finally got my fair share of good rides in the last couple days. It was a fun morning swell this morning.. board swapping and nose riding included. Last night I saw the most beautiful sunset while I was sliding on glass with friends. I couldn’t believe how blessed I was to experience it. The sky was illuminated in red and the sun was blood orange. It made the entire ocean glow like smooth, orange glass. I have to take a deep breath just thinking about it.
I’m not quite surfed out yet but getting there. I’d actually like to spend an entire day at the beach surfing, resting, surfing, resting, and surfing again. I cannot remember the last time I did something like that. Life happens some times and you gotta pay your dues. But those couple of hours on the water make it all worth it. You gotta work hard to slide hard. Hahaha!
Work than slide ’cause nobody rides for free!