(Photos by: Brooklyn Hawaii & me)
I love those in-between swells on a fall day. Its the perfect time to get in to an empty line up and practice cross stepping. Don’t get me wrong.. I love me a hefty swell [to catch up on beach walking and big wave observing of course] but I cannot tell you how good it feels to get in a good surf session with a handful of friends.
And now I’m daydreaming [in slow motion] about sliding in the sea.
I love that moment right before standing up on a wave and letting the momentum of the ocean push you forward. I wish I could freeze that moment in time. Especially because there is usually a moment during the rest of the wave when I try to walk forward and do not make it to the nose or do a wonky turn. Or wipeout. So the beginning moment is pretty dreamy for me. These early-winter swells are pretty dreamy too.
I’m pretty content with [in-between] sessions of the fall.