I don’t typically document boy sliders.. boy short boarders. Not really my thaaang. But I’m an old lady. I hurt my back surfing last week and now I’m out of the water for a while. Or on a board anyway. That only meant one thing for the boys.. a girlfriend surf photographer for last weeks swell. Yaaayyayy….. Not that I would have surfed 8 foot waves anyway. But I love an adventure. And when I found out a bunch of the boys were gonna be camping on the other side of the island.. I wanted in. So I hopped in for the ride. It was a good excuse to learn the ways of a surf photographer.. snapping a photo at the right moment of a barrel or cutback. Or in my case: holding down the shutter button every time someone caught a wave and hoping 1 of the 100′s of photos was good. Hah. I’m kidding.. of course I wouldn’t do such a thing. It wastes actuations. And finger energy!
It was a nice weekend expedition though. One of those weekends that gives me dreads in my hair, a glowing tan to my skin, leaves all my clothes smelling like a campfire, and feeling completely exhausted by the time I get home.
For the boys..