Filed under Waves

READY FOR SUMMER

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I donʻt typically like to put up inspiration photos [thatʻs what my tumblr is supposed to be for] but I felt like it was the only way to express myself on this particular Friday. Iʻm really looking forward to the summer even though I have no idea what it will entail [minus the location and job description.] And even though I live in Hawaii and surrounded by sand, ocean, sun, and waves it is always inspiring to go through photos that evoke the inner summer in me.

Iʻm ready for summer.

x

Photos from: tumblr

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THE SINGLE FIN PROJECT

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My girls Brooklyn and Cassandra from Roam Hawaii are at it again and just came out with a rad little project.. Single Fin. This little brain child will be a limited collection offering unique, one-of-a-kind, vintage inspired bikini tops, t-shirts, and other hand-embellished [and refurbished] fashion goods.

Fashion goods aside.. I absolutely love the way they laid out their campaign. Cute little polaroids, hand-picked outfits, and a plethora of island goodness. I cannot help but be a little proud for these girls. After all, they are my girls. I love seeing my fellow sisters doing rad things and creating a little niche for themselves. Itʻs pretty humbling to be surrounded by people with amazing talent and creativity.

Get it while itʻs available and fall in love with the surfing lifestyle all over again at the SHOP.

The Single Fin Project. Be apart of it!

x

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THAT SPECIAL PLACE

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Iʻve talked about this place before. Itʻs one of those places that surpasses any exotic location I have ever traveled to. Itʻs one of those only places I will wake up before the sun for. Itʻs one of those places I will probably have my ashes spread after I die. Itʻs one of those special places. Waipiʻo Valley.

On this particular Sunday morning the sky was overcast and the river was running hard. My friend and I may have made a couple attempts to cross it and failed terribly. Rightfully so. It is probably the most swollen Iʻve seen it. A bit embarrassing but thankfully neither of us drown. Regardless if it is raining or the sun is shining bright.. it is still one of the most breathtaking places. Misty mornings, deep gouging valley, dark black sand beaches, glassy dumping waves. It is definitely a magical place. And a humbling place as well. I opted to swim out to the lineup to avoid any further blunders in the river and enjoyed getting a small pounding by the waves. It was so nice to be out in the water and watch the waves roll through [without any attempt at catching it or getting caught on the inside with a board.] Just as is. Just being. It was the best way to end my Hilo hiatus.

I was in that special place.

x

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EVENING SESSIONS

evening-sessions-1evening-sessions-2evening-sessions-3evening-sessions-4evening-sessions-5evening-sessions-6Been spending a lot of time in the ocean on a log.. sometimes even some two-a-days. And I’m especially enjoying those glassy evening sessions with friends. Tonight we pretty much had the break to ourselves. It doesn’t get much better than that.

I grew up surfing Honoli’i but my body must have forgotten how cold it can get. I have been pretty cold in the evenings. I’m such a sorry excuse for a girl who grew up learning and surfing there. I could easily wear a full-suit out there now. No problem. Haha. I’m kidding. But man, when that river surges.. it has a chilly bite.

But after a couple sessions of numb fingers and chattering teeth.. I’ll get over it. It’s always worth it either way. Those glassy little insiders are calling out to me.

Until the next evening sessions.

x

Photos: me

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LAZY SATURDAYS

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So a couple of friends and I decided to drive to the other side of the island for some snorkeling and lounging at one of our favorite beaches.. 69′s. But don’t let the name fool you. It is actually named after the mile marker it falls on.. not that other 69. Whatever that means.

We even made a couple of stops off in Waimea.. including the farmers market, thrift store, and “Puppies for Sale.” Which really made me think long and hard about potentially living in that area. It is so beautiful. Misty green hills, quaint plantation homes, and that good ol’ ranching vibe. The Big Island is such a unique, diverse place. It’s pretty incredible. They’re not lying when they called this island big. You could easily choose to be between white sand beaches, rolling green hills and horse covered pastures, long stretches of lava, active flowing rivers of molten lava, snowy mountain tops, dramatic valleys, sweeping waterfalls, black sand beaches, rain forests, and dry desolate deserts. All in one day [if you tried really hard]. It’s hard to beat and the perfect place to be on hiatus.

Just another lazy saturday on the Big Island.

x

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LIFE AT HOME

life-at-home-1life-at-home-2life-at-home-3life-at-home-4life-at-home-5life-at-home-6life-at-home-7life-at-home-8life-at-home-9life-at-home-10life-at-home-11life-at-home-12life-at-home-13life-at-home-14life-at-home-15life-at-home-16life-at-home-17Life has gotten back to normal since I have been home. Water and waves per usual. I was looking through my photos and really realized how much of my time is spent in and around the ocean. Most people will probably think “duh” but it has become much more apparent to me recently. Especially when you talk to friends who say they don’t have time for the beach or surfing. This realization has made me feel super blessed. ‘Cos I gotta have time fo’ dat!

Anyway, it probably helped that my sister was visiting. So in between late night work sessions and trying to figure out what I am going to be doing next in my life.. we got a lot of beach time in. Shell collecting, sliding late season swells, hiking the Makapu’u lighthouse and tide pools, and general beach lounging. This past week of doing close to nothing really helped me get back in to the groove of things. If that even makes sense.

And in between the water and waves and life questions.. I am planning my next adventure. Summer time is gonna be an epic adventure I think?! It’s all in the works now and I definitely don’t want to blow it by leaking it out just yet. Crossing my fingers!

But for now I am enjoying life at home.

x

Photos: big sis + me

 

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DIARIES FROM DOWN UNDER III

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Finally went through the last of my photos from down under. I put it off for a while.. maybe just my small way of holding on?? Probably. But looking at these photos makes me feel like all those adventures were ages ago. A lot of really good times and fond memories were made within the month and a half  traveling down there. I will be back. But until then.. off on another adventure.

One last Diaries From Down Under.

x

 

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THE REMEDY

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It was really hard leaving Australia. I think when you have a really good time somewhere [for an extended amount of time] it should be. I almost feel like I left a little of myself behind.. and I need to go back and get it. I definitely need to go back and collect the rest of me. And maybe a Australian passport while I’m at it. Hah. That among other things.

I always feel a bit imbalanced after a long trip.. like I’m not quite sure where I belong. In limbo. But.. but coming home to crystal clear, glassy blue water is the best feeling in the world. It’s the best way to shed those traveling blues. And just what I needed. There is nothing a bit of salt water cannot fix. I can’t even explain the feeling I felt when I walked down to the beach. I felt like a mid-America tourist who saw the ocean for the first time. It was the best feeling after getting off a 9+ hour flight.

If you need me you know where to find me. In the remedy.

x

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DIARIES FROM DOWN UNDER II

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Finally made our way back from our trip down south and we’re exhausted. Getting some down time before I’m up in the air and back in Hawaii. What an amazing road trip. We managed to jam pack heaps of adventures and good times within a week. We drove over 1600/km from Sydney to Melbourne and back. 1600 kilometers!! The 8 hour [straight] drive back was pretty grueling. But so worth it. We stopped off in some rad new places and hung out with some pretty rad friends. We managed see most of Sydney’s city, fit in a couple surf sessions, wake up in beautiful Avalon, go boating and wake-surf in Cornulla, swim in secret water caves, hang out with wild kangas at Pebbly Beach, go shell collecting at random beaches, have an early morning skinny dips in the Bass Strait, climb Mt. Oberon at Wilson’s Prom, hang at Bells Beach in the warm sun, drive the Great Ocean Road, and spending an afternoon/evening in Melbourne. All in a week. One week.

I wish we could do it all over again. Maybe with heaps more time. A year please?? Hah. NSW to Victoria is absolutely beautiful. There is so much to see and do. Places to surf, trails to hike, cafes to hang at, coffee to be drunk, shops to shop, people to meet, and memories to be made. And I have to say I had one of the best traveling partners. Which makes such a huge difference. Having a like-minded travel buddy is probably the most important part of a good trip. I have no complaints. It was one rad, adventure-packed week! Definitely one for the books.

Diaries from Down Under through NSW to Victoria and back.

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A DAY ON THE NORTH SHORE


(Video from: here)

Before I get deep into my Australia traveling logs I wanted to share something with you. Long, long overdue. Back when I opened my Pop-Up Shop with SpecialME we did a little video to go along with it. With all the hustle and bustle and last minute booking to Australia I never got a chance to share it with you. So here it is. Bad surfing, good filming/edit.

Enjoy and don’t forget to check out the SpecialME store in Waikiki for all the other pop-up shop goodies. It’s only around for one more month! So get on down there!

But for now.. enjoy a day on the north shore with a ladyslider.

x

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