Every part of my body is sore from a fun-filled day of surfing and cruising down at the beach. This morning we popped out of bed, got our gear together and spent the entire day at the beach with friends (although I didn’t spend much time with friends because I was surfing the entire time. Eek.) The waves were so fun I don’t even think you understand how much I am still beaming inside from the session.
Okay, I have to admit I had doubts about this spot. It was the first time I’ve ever surfed it. Can you imagine I have been living here my entire life and never experienced this wave?? I felt like I was at a California beach break with no kelp or a need for wetsuits. I stand corrected, Jennifer. I hope there are huge waves all winter loooong. ‘Cos this is where you’ll find me the next couple months!!
When’s the next swell anyway??
(PS. I know that photo of my sandals seem a bit out of place. But for some reason those are the shoes I slipped on this morning and wore through the sand. I found it amusing. A friend gifted them to me from a recent trip to India and I am in love with them. It’s no wonder I wore them I guess. Thanks Michele.)