Tagged with logging …

May 07 2013
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Waves

EVENING SESSIONS

evening-sessions-1evening-sessions-2evening-sessions-3evening-sessions-4evening-sessions-5evening-sessions-6Been spending a lot of time in the ocean on a log.. sometimes even some two-a-days. And I’m especially enjoying those glassy evening sessions with friends. Tonight we pretty much had the break to ourselves. It doesn’t get much better than that.

I grew up surfing Honoli’i but my body must have forgotten how cold it can get. I have been pretty cold in the evenings. I’m such a sorry excuse for a girl who grew up learning and surfing there. I could easily wear a full-suit out there now. No problem. Haha. I’m kidding. But man, when that river surges.. it has a chilly bite.

But after a couple sessions of numb fingers and chattering teeth.. I’ll get over it. It’s always worth it either way. Those glassy little insiders are calling out to me.

Until the next evening sessions.

x

Photos: me

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Apr 04 2013
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Travel, Waves

INSIDER SLIDERS

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Even though the waves have been pretty small over the last couple of days we have still made it a point to get a few sessions in. I think I have been in the ocean just about every day. And I’m not complaining. Between Byron Bay and Noosa headlands we have been getting our fair share of rides. No matter how small.

I am loving all these point breaks and how they are nestled among the gum trees. Enough reason to pack up all my stuff and forget my life back home for a while. The longboardable waves are endless. Slow moving, peeling, glassy little nuggets all along the coast. Even when the waves barely break above the knee.. I am satisfied. It doesn’t get much better than this. Well.. kind of. Give me some peeling 2-footers and I can die happy. But I don’t think I am ready to keel over just yet and the little ones are just as fun.

Enjoying those insider sliders.

x

 

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Mar 24 2013
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Life, Travel, Waves

DIARIES FROM DOWN UNDER I

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Finally.. decent internet and a chance to sit down and go through all the photos from the last couple weeks! I have found it a struggle to find time to log on to the world wide web when you’re traveling. But that’s when you know you’re having a good time. Good for me. Not so good for the handful of people who are might actually want to see whats going on. And by handful I am talking about my mom and sister.. and maybe my dad.

These photos are just a glimpse in to the logging days, long drives, and many adventures we went on over the course of a week. I am smitten. It has been a great trip so far. And I still have more to share! Just got back from a mini camping/surf trip in Angourie and have been surfing perfect point breaks on the Gold Coast! I feel so unbelievably blessed to be here. And blessed to just be.

Heaps of other little road trips and coastal adventures coming up soon. Cannot wait to experience it all and share it with you!

The first log of diaries down under.

x

 

PS. I don’t know if you noticed but Brooke and I both got outfitted with a couple of Two Crows Surfboards just before our trip. Just in time to make it on the plane and help us wiggle our way through Australia. I am so unbelievably stoked on my lady log. It has been the perfect board.. great for trimming and [somewhat] making my way to the nose. Boards make such a huge difference. I don’t want to toot my own horn or anything but I’m pretty sure my surfing has gotten a little bit better since my new board. There is something to be said about that. Thaaaaank you Two Crows!

Photos: Brooklyn Hawaii + me

 

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Mar 20 2013
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Travel, Waves

A LOGGING MOMENT

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I still haven’t quite gotten through all the photos from this past week and I need to. My camera memory card is full and I need to tackle that technological beast soon. But I finally have a day to sit down and relax. And by relax I actually mean get some work done. I am currently sitting in a coffee shop in Burleigh Heads. [Awkwardly.. I might add. I'm pretty sure this isn't the kind of coffee shop you bust out your computer at. Dumb American.]

So far this will have been the longest, least planned trip I have ever been on. I booked my ticket the night before my flight, rented a car on the spot, wandered into the city to find a vacant campervan, and slept and surfed where ever the wind settled. In one week Brooke and I have been up and down a portion of the Eastern Coast [several times], surfed a handful of new waves, met heaps of new friends, hung out with old ones, and had the time of our lives. And that was only one week. Now my travel buddy has gone back to Hawaii and I am deciding what to do for the next month. An entire month of impromptu traveling and last minute plans! Yew!

Fortunately, I have an Aussie/Hawaiian friend in the area and have settled at her place for a while. She’s already been a crucial part of our random weekend adventures and shown us the ropes in Noosa. So thankful for friends like that. Tina is one of those gifted Hawaiian girls that just so happens to be Australian too. The best of both worlds. But I also think that’s why surfing is such an amazing lifestyle and culture. You can travel half way across the world and find a friend in a foreign place. We are a part of such a rad community of openminded, salty skinned, well traveled creatures. Her and I just went logging this morning and watched the sun rise. It cannot get much better than that.

I will try to organize my photos and share more travel adventures. In the meantime, we will be planning our next adventure [camping and surfing in Angourie for the weekend please?!]

To logging adventures and great friends!

x

Photo: me

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Apr 15 2012
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Life, Waves

OREGON COAST | MINI SLIDING


(Photos by: SUM NUT)

My big sis just sent me the most amazing photos of a little trip they took to the Oregon coast. My favorite little people got groovy on some logs, did some fully-clothed swimming, and roosted a few. My mini (well.. I’d like to think she is my mini. I want to be as cool as her some day) got a sweet little log ride similar to mine on a recent Beach Comb. I can’t get over it! So rad! I would almost consider these photos in the fashion category.. how rad is the little mans outfit?? That Norsk sweater!! He’s looking extra fab in his red and yellow combo. And my mini’s fur jacket, stripe leggings, and layering.. I should be taking fashion queues from them!!

I’m so stoked on these photos. I definitely need to plan a trip back to Oregon real soon to visit kindred and embark on some cold water adventures.

Missing and loving these little mini sliding kiddos!!

x

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