Tagged with long boarding …

Mar 20 2013
Leave a comment
Travel, Waves

A LOGGING MOMENT

a-logging-moment

I still haven’t quite gotten through all the photos from this past week and I need to. My camera memory card is full and I need to tackle that technological beast soon. But I finally have a day to sit down and relax. And by relax I actually mean get some work done. I am currently sitting in a coffee shop in Burleigh Heads. [Awkwardly.. I might add. I'm pretty sure this isn't the kind of coffee shop you bust out your computer at. Dumb American.]

So far this will have been the longest, least planned trip I have ever been on. I booked my ticket the night before my flight, rented a car on the spot, wandered into the city to find a vacant campervan, and slept and surfed where ever the wind settled. In one week Brooke and I have been up and down a portion of the Eastern Coast [several times], surfed a handful of new waves, met heaps of new friends, hung out with old ones, and had the time of our lives. And that was only one week. Now my travel buddy has gone back to Hawaii and I am deciding what to do for the next month. An entire month of impromptu traveling and last minute plans! Yew!

Fortunately, I have an Aussie/Hawaiian friend in the area and have settled at her place for a while. She’s already been a crucial part of our random weekend adventures and shown us the ropes in Noosa. So thankful for friends like that. Tina is one of those gifted Hawaiian girls that just so happens to be Australian too. The best of both worlds. But I also think that’s why surfing is such an amazing lifestyle and culture. You can travel half way across the world and find a friend in a foreign place. We are a part of such a rad community of openminded, salty skinned, well traveled creatures. Her and I just went logging this morning and watched the sun rise. It cannot get much better than that.

I will try to organize my photos and share more travel adventures. In the meantime, we will be planning our next adventure [camping and surfing in Angourie for the weekend please?!]

To logging adventures and great friends!

x

Photo: me

Tagged , , , ,
Dec 05 2012
Leave a comment
Waves

INSIDER SLIDERS

(Photos by: Brooklyn Hawaii)

I will be the first to admit two things.

Number one: If the waves are up on the North Shore.. I am on the hunt for smaller waves elsewhere. Even if that means sliding on tiny ankle snappers in rainy weather. And especially if it is with good friends whom you are taking surfing notes from. Ahem [Lady Issa De Mar].

Number two: One of my best friends [Brooklyn Hawaii] is a magician with a camera. There are your typical surf photos and then there are your artsy surf photos. She gets it. I needn’t say more.

Surprisingly, I feel like we have been getting in more surf sessions than usual this time of year. If you count ankle snappers and barely-there-waves. I’m not complaining. But maybe that means we are getting more desperate too?? Haha. Who knows. All I know is that it’s better than sitting at home and twiddling your thumbs as you wait for the rain clouds to roll by. Tiny waves and rainy days it is.

We are insider sliders.

x

 

Tagged , , , , ,
Oct 26 2012
1 Comment
Waves

SESSIONS OF THE FALL


(Photos by: Brooklyn Hawaii & me)

I love those in-between swells on a fall day. Its the perfect time to get in to an empty line up and practice cross stepping. Don’t get me wrong.. I love me a hefty swell [to catch up on beach walking and big wave observing of course] but I cannot tell you how good it feels to get in a good surf session with a handful of friends.

And now I’m daydreaming [in slow motion] about sliding in the sea.

I love that moment right before standing up on a wave and letting the momentum of the ocean push you forward. I wish I could freeze that moment in time. Especially because there is usually a moment during the rest of the wave when I try to walk forward and do not make it to the nose or do a wonky turn. Or wipeout. So the beginning moment is pretty dreamy for me. These early-winter swells are pretty dreamy too.

I’m pretty content with [in-between] sessions of the fall.

x

Tagged , , , , ,
Sep 11 2012
Leave a comment
Waves

NO TOES ON THE NOSE

(Photos by: TR)

So I had this idea [while I was surfing] that I was getting better at going to the nose. But I must have really bad vision or too much water is blasting in my eyeballs because.. after seeing these photos I realize that I’m not even on the nose. Not even a little!! I have no explanation for this other than I really need to practice my cross step. And take that extra step.

Just one step short of my happy little toes curling over the edge!

But while I was driving today I heard a commercial on the radio with Donovan Frankenreiter whose Tip of the Day was “the best surfer out there is the surfer having the most fun.” Corny, I know. But it puts a bit of light on the situation. I really appreciate those people who are always smiling and having a good time. In anything and everything. You know? Which kind of makes me think about the entire preface of this blog.. which wasn’t created because I thought I was some amazing surfer [or fashionista or wanderlust for that matter.] It’s just for the love of it all. Whether it’s surfing, fashion, traveling, running around naked, or anything else makes you and me happy. I had a lot of fun surfing over the weekend [with or without my toes in the "right" place.] And that’s all that really matters. Right?? I hope so.

No toes on the nose but I still have happy toes!

x

Tagged , , , ,
Apr 01 2012
6 Comments
Fashion, Waves

SUNDAY SLIDING

(Photos by: TR) (T-Shirt: Quality Peoples, Swimsuit: Billabong)

Spent my Sunday playing in the waves and getting major skin damage [my buttocks and lower back got nailed by the sun.] Thankfully, that handy-dandy shirt I’m wearing helped protect the rest of my body courtesy of good ol’ Quality Peoples..

I’ve been following their well-curated blog for some time and was absolutely thrilled when I visited their site one day to find a full-fledged website. I thought I was pretty done with t-shirts [due partly to age maybe] and was trying to phase all the poorly designed t-shirts out of my closet. But Quality Peoples definitely makes t-shirts cool again. And I want to start wearing t-shirts again! Those guys are rad. QP.. you guys are rad!!

Anyway, a while ago I talked about my love for nose-perching, gracefully sliding women on logs. I’ve been trying my knack at it.. practicing.. trying to perfect my skill. But I firmly believe I look like a caveman when I surf. The photos verify it. And so I’ve decided the art of surfing will probably be a lifelong pursuit for me [as it is probably such for most people].. style being the most important. Because you can surf all you want but if you don’t possess style and grace you’ll look like a banshee every time you’re on a wave. But I don’t mind. It’s not such a bad thing to put all your energy in to and strive for.

Surfing is pretty amazing for all that it is. It’s a sport and an art and a lifestyle. It’s such a critical part of my life that I cannot imagine living a life without the sea and the waves. I feel so incredibly blessed to be able to partake in such a beautiful thing.

And I want to sunday slide every sunday!

x

Tagged , , , , , , , , ,
Mar 20 2012
Leave a comment
Waves

INSPIRED | NOSE PERCHING

(Photos from: Various Sources including Surfer’s Journal, Drift Surfing, Tumblr, Ten Piggies Over, and Liquid Salt Magazine)

I am determined to become an avid nose percher. And be graceful doing it too. I get so inspired by girls out there surfing so gracefully and walking back and forth on their boards with such ease. Long boarding was meant for ladies. It’s like dancing on water. Sometimes I feel like a gorilla walking on a bamboo stick.

I mean, I can do it.. for a mili-second. If you count “falling” to the front of my board. Hahaha. I’m kidding. But when I actually think about it I should probably perfect the skills on my log. After all, my name suggests it. I cannot only live the lifestyle. I have to exude the talent too I think. I want to make it an art.

But I watch the finesse and poise of Belina Baggs, Daize Shayne Goodwin, and Kelia Moniz and want so badly to be a natural at it. They make it look so easy. I get especially inspired by those girls just doing it because they love it. They’re amazing at it. It’s like second nature.. like they’ve had a relationship with the sea their entire lives. And Mainstream surf culture will never know their names. Thank goodness. It’s so refreshing.

So I will be spending my few moments of free time streaming DVD’s and photos of perfect little toes over the nose.

And I will call it.. The Study of Nose Perching.

x

 

Tagged , , , , , , , , ,
Mar 12 2012
Leave a comment
Waves

GOING OFF THE WALL

(Video by: Peter King)

With the water looking like chocolate, the relentless wind, and the constant feeling of sogginess it is hard to have any motivation to go surfing or  doing any other extra curricular activity. So instead of braving the waters and potentially getting leptospirosis I am content with being inspired by this video.

 Last summer there was a tiny bump of action at Off the Wall.. so a couple of us girls decided to brave the waves and paddle out (hey, it’s the one opportunity I have to actually say I surfed Off the Wall/Pipe/etc.!! Let me wallow in it a tiny bit.) We caught a couple of fun ones and got a little bit of bragging rights.. yeah, I know that’s a stretch. Eheheh.

I always watch this little clip when I wanna soak up the sun and get some wave action.

And going Off the Wall. Because I’m going off the walls with this weather!!

x

Tagged , , , , , , ,