Been spending a lot of time in the ocean on a log.. sometimes even some two-a-days. And I’m especially enjoying those glassy evening sessions with friends. Tonight we pretty much had the break to ourselves. It doesn’t get much better than that.
I grew up surfing Honoli’i but my body must have forgotten how cold it can get. I have been pretty cold in the evenings. I’m such a sorry excuse for a girl who grew up learning and surfing there. I could easily wear a full-suit out there now. No problem. Haha. I’m kidding. But man, when that river surges.. it has a chilly bite.
But after a couple sessions of numb fingers and chattering teeth.. I’ll get over it. It’s always worth it either way. Those glassy little insiders are calling out to me.
Until the next evening sessions.