Tagged with longboarding

EVENING SESSIONS

evening-sessions-1evening-sessions-2evening-sessions-3evening-sessions-4evening-sessions-5evening-sessions-6Been spending a lot of time in the ocean on a log.. sometimes even some two-a-days. And I’m especially enjoying those glassy evening sessions with friends. Tonight we pretty much had the break to ourselves. It doesn’t get much better than that.

I grew up surfing Honoli’i but my body must have forgotten how cold it can get. I have been pretty cold in the evenings. I’m such a sorry excuse for a girl who grew up learning and surfing there. I could easily wear a full-suit out there now. No problem. Haha. I’m kidding. But man, when that river surges.. it has a chilly bite.

But after a couple sessions of numb fingers and chattering teeth.. I’ll get over it. It’s always worth it either way. Those glassy little insiders are calling out to me.

Until the next evening sessions.

x

Photos: me

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SUMMER IS SWELL


(Photos by: TR)

An unexpected swell hit the country and none of us are complaining! Such a fun little surprise and now we’re all beat. All the muscles in my body hurt. But it is definitely feeling like summer time.. Even with the unexpected waves. The sun, the atmosphere. Wavy days and hot summer nights. My friends and I decided we are going to make it an Endless Summer 2012. I want to to feel like I’m young again and actually have a summer break.

I think it’s gonna be a swell summer!!

x

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WATERS AND RAYS


(Photos from: here)

Channeling my inner waters with these photos from Justin Crawford and Simon Ozolins for MOAT. Been super into MOAT ever since I laid eyes on their product. What is even better is their ability to capture it with photographs in just the right way that makes me want to do exactly what they’re doing too. Tricky. I love the composition and color of the photos. The perfect kind of images to inspire me on these cold, windy, rainy nights in Hawaii.

Just letting my mind soak in the water and rays..

x

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HEY HO LET’S GO SURFING


(Video from: here)

I’ve been doing some research and studying a bit. Extension stuff I tell you. So I’m just going to come out and say. I really want to get better at surfing. More specifically.. longboarding. I watch surf movies late into the night examining different peoples style and sometimes sit in awe and wonder how they pull some of that stuff. And sometimes I get a little embarrassed when I don’t even know the name of the move (after all, I’ve been surfing most of my life.. that’s reason to be a tiny bit embarrassed.) I’d like to get to a point where I am.. graceful. Because right now I feel like a gorilla walking to the nose. You know??! No? Maybe not.

Anyway, I came across this little number by Nathan Oldfield. I really like his work. The footage, music, little drawings, fade outs, etc. etc. etc. really tell a story. And I like stories. His videos are really personal and authentic. A lot of his work has been centered around the grief of life lost and surfings healing power. It’s quite compelling. You can watch Stillbirth & Surfing and Seaworthy to understand it all.

In the mean time, hey hoooo lets gooooo!!

x

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