Tagged with waves

A WEEKEND IN ANGOURIE

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I got to spend one of the dreamiest weekends camping in Angourie with a handful of friends. This little excursion alone satisfied any expectation I had for my trip down under. We packed up our gear [including a healthy number of surfboards], loaded into the car, and road-tripped south for a couple days. A couple days well spent.

We used most of our weekend hours surfing.. and a little campsite searching. Ended up finding the best little zone nestled in the dunes overlooking a little beach break. We got ourselves a couple of really good sessions at that spot. Oh, and the stars at night. The stars! You wouldn’t believe how gorgeous the sky was. It lit up like millions of tiny diamonds exploding in a pool of vastness. And the sunsets.. and sunrises. Beyond any line of words could describe.

Such an unbelievably satisfying weekend. I am smitten.

A weekend in Angourie.. and well spent.

x

Photo: Tina H. + me

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DIARIES FROM DOWN UNDER I

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Finally.. decent internet and a chance to sit down and go through all the photos from the last couple weeks! I have found it a struggle to find time to log on to the world wide web when you’re traveling. But that’s when you know you’re having a good time. Good for me. Not so good for the handful of people who are might actually want to see whats going on. And by handful I am talking about my mom and sister.. and maybe my dad.

These photos are just a glimpse in to the logging days, long drives, and many adventures we went on over the course of a week. I am smitten. It has been a great trip so far. And I still have more to share! Just got back from a mini camping/surf trip in Angourie and have been surfing perfect point breaks on the Gold Coast! I feel so unbelievably blessed to be here. And blessed to just be.

Heaps of other little road trips and coastal adventures coming up soon. Cannot wait to experience it all and share it with you!

The first log of diaries down under.

x

 

PS. I don’t know if you noticed but Brooke and I both got outfitted with a couple of Two Crows Surfboards just before our trip. Just in time to make it on the plane and help us wiggle our way through Australia. I am so unbelievably stoked on my lady log. It has been the perfect board.. great for trimming and [somewhat] making my way to the nose. Boards make such a huge difference. I don’t want to toot my own horn or anything but I’m pretty sure my surfing has gotten a little bit better since my new board. There is something to be said about that. Thaaaaank you Two Crows!

Photos: Brooklyn Hawaii + me

 

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A LOGGING MOMENT

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I still haven’t quite gotten through all the photos from this past week and I need to. My camera memory card is full and I need to tackle that technological beast soon. But I finally have a day to sit down and relax. And by relax I actually mean get some work done. I am currently sitting in a coffee shop in Burleigh Heads. [Awkwardly.. I might add. I'm pretty sure this isn't the kind of coffee shop you bust out your computer at. Dumb American.]

So far this will have been the longest, least planned trip I have ever been on. I booked my ticket the night before my flight, rented a car on the spot, wandered into the city to find a vacant campervan, and slept and surfed where ever the wind settled. In one week Brooke and I have been up and down a portion of the Eastern Coast [several times], surfed a handful of new waves, met heaps of new friends, hung out with old ones, and had the time of our lives. And that was only one week. Now my travel buddy has gone back to Hawaii and I am deciding what to do for the next month. An entire month of impromptu traveling and last minute plans! Yew!

Fortunately, I have an Aussie/Hawaiian friend in the area and have settled at her place for a while. She’s already been a crucial part of our random weekend adventures and shown us the ropes in Noosa. So thankful for friends like that. Tina is one of those gifted Hawaiian girls that just so happens to be Australian too. The best of both worlds. But I also think that’s why surfing is such an amazing lifestyle and culture. You can travel half way across the world and find a friend in a foreign place. We are a part of such a rad community of openminded, salty skinned, well traveled creatures. Her and I just went logging this morning and watched the sun rise. It cannot get much better than that.

I will try to organize my photos and share more travel adventures. In the meantime, we will be planning our next adventure [camping and surfing in Angourie for the weekend please?!]

To logging adventures and great friends!

x

Photo: me

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THE OPENING

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The whirlwind is finally done and opening night is over! I had a great night serving friends Pogmosa’s and talking to Japanese magazine/press peeps in code [I really need to learn Nihongo.] It has been a crazy last couple of days. I was almost sure it wasn’t going to come together. But it did. Oh my gosh, it did!

The biggest disappointment of the night: my lack of attention to photo-taking. It must have been from the lack of sleep and excitement of other bodies in the building [people actually came!] But I wish I had spent a little more time watching people, taking photos, and capturing moments. I really wanted to show you folks the process, the details, the stress, the blood, the breakdown moments, the snack table, the excitement, etc. I even brought my Fuji Instax to capture moments. I should have snapped a photo of a photo. There were some good ones. Bah. I wish I could have showed it all to you! At least my mom got in on some of the action!

If you didn’t get a chance to check it out on opening night it will still be there for a whole two and a half months. That gives you a lot of time to take a look. No excuses.

The opening night of Ladyslider for SpecialME. A success I think!

x

 

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MUTHER OF ALL WETSUITS

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(Photos from: here)

I’m in California! And I have been for the last week. Which has a lot to do with the reason why I have been a tad bit absent. So many places to go, things to do, and food to eat. I will give you a nifty little California travel dairy when I’ve collected the photos over the last week. But since I’ve been here all I have been thinking about are wetsuits [among other things]. The air is cold and the water is freezing. What I could do for a good [and fashionably sensitive] wetsuit. And there’s one particular company that knows whats up.

MOAT. I love Muther Of All Things. I’ve probably expressed this enough in recent history. It’s hard to find a decent wetsuit that accommodates surf functionality and fashion sensibility. I’m just saying.. sometimes us girls don’t want to be decked out in an all-black, masculine seal suit. And the girls at MOAT know this. Color print leggings, a subtle cutout here, contrasting fabric there, and surf jackets w/ princesslines in all the right places. That’ll make any girl wanna jump [fashionably] in to frigid cold waters.

Muther Of All Things.. Muther Of All Wetsuits.

x

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IN THE FOAM

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(Photos: me)

I have this deep obsession with foam from the ocean. When I am walking on the beach I feel the need to point out any time it forms in just the right way. Usually, if the person I am with is game.. I will shoot photos. I have this ongoing personal endeavor of capturing the perfect foam moment. It usually involves bare skin and sea foam. There is something beautiful about the connection between skin and sea.

One day I will capture that serendipity-like moment when it touches a leg or arm in just the right way and I have it captured it with a camera. It’s just another way for me to be connected with mother ocean. She’s fascinating in so many ways. Even down to the very conclusive of a wave.

There is just something about that foam.

x

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SPECIAL PROJECT I

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Since I have been out of the water for several weeks what better way to cope with the saltwater blues than a surf/art project??  Streaming that inner retro lifestyle– Vintage Hawaiian prints, B&W photos, surf sliding adventures. I could get used to it.

But let’s be honest.. I’m ready to get in the water again. Aghhh!

Special Project I. And more to come.

x

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LIFE IS GINGER

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Life has been pretty quiet around here lately. With the knee still in recovery and a hiatus from any kind of  fashion spending its hard to keep up when there’s nothing to keep up with! And.. I lost my eyeglasses. I cannot see a thing [and it took a lot out of me to fashion this post alone.] So I’ve been spending a lot of time lounging in the sand.. figuring out ways to stay motivated and productive. New specs would help a lot.

I also haven’t been in the photo snapping mood lately. But isn’t it crazy how one little flower can change everything?? I think it would probably be pretty redundant for me to constantly keep updates on.. lounging on the beach. Wah wah. But one fell swoop with my gardening shears and a trip to the beach spiced it up a bit. Don’t you think?? I’ve been pretty fascinated with ginger spears lately.. I even started conducted minor research on the flower. Such an interesting simulation in my life right now. Did you know red ginger symbolizes passion and strength?? I’m exploring this.

Anyway.. I just wanted to make sure you all knew I was still here! Breathing, existing, living! I have a couple of really exciting things coming up and am looking forward to sharing it with you all. In the meantime I will be staring at grains of sand and looking forward to the day I can be sliding and creating again!!

Life is still pretty ginger.

x

 

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IN REMISSION

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I have not gotten 2013 off to a good start.. physically. In between a minor concussion [from GoPro blow to the head] whilst air-mattress surfing and injuring my knee with a lackluster explanation 2013 is definitely trying to tell me something. I’m getting older.

On the bright side it has given opportunity to more beach lounging, sister pow wows, and creative endeavors. For the next couple weeks I will not be distracted by the surf forecast and other things that involve use of my major limbs [I guess my head doesn't count. bleh.] But I do have to get out of my south pacific funk and remember I am back in the real world. It’s hustle time. No more lounging on motu’s and carelessly swimming in lagoons! Which is perfectly fine and I have come to terms with it. Time to work on those New Years resolutions and check things off my list! Let the creative juices flow and business-woman-attitude reign!!

In [physical] remission until further notice. Now pumping on [creative] iron!!

x

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BIG ISLAND ADVENTURE

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My Big Island vacation in a nut shell. Long overdue. But [after my trip to the south pacific] I finally have fast enough internet to share it all. I had so much fun over the holidays it was really hard to leave. I almost thought I could stay in hilo over taking a flight to Tahiti. It really did cross my mind.. briefly. But I’m sure you all know what I chose to do. Of course. I could never pass up an opportunity to travel.. especially to Tahiti. But at the time it was hard to leave home.

There was so much to do and so many friends to hang out with! I pretty much did everything I love doing when I go home [excluding a trip down to Waipio Valley. Boo.] Waves, lava, road trips, mountains, beaches, parties, waterfalls, and time well spent with family and friends. There is something very special about the Big Island. It is unlike anywhere else. I don’t know where else you can be inches from molten lava, drive to the mountains to play in the snow, and head to the beach for a quick surf all in one day.

It was definitely a legitimate Big Island Adventure.

x

 

 

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