I think there are very few of us on the North Shore who get excited when the waves are on their way down. But those are the days I live for. 2-3 foot glassy, Hawaiian peelers. Logging heaven. The last couple of days have been that way. My life feels incredibly productive when I’ve surf twice a day [but then again its pretty rough when I realize I have real work to do.] Hahhh.. I don’t have the privilege or the skill to consider surfing as a profession.. let alone productive. Unfortunately.
But there is something about those days in between swells past and swells on the horizon. The lineup is less crowded, people retreat back to their lives outside of the ocean, and most of the beaches are pretty empty. It’s a little bit of a luxury when you don’t like big waves and world class waves are in your backyard.
Those in between days.