I was beginning to feel like I could live without surfing. Only because I had gone a couple weeks without having had a "real" session. And survived. Thank goodness this nice little North swell came our way over the weekend. Can you imagine? What a bleak life it would be without a wave and a log.
We got in two sessions on this particular day. I am spent.
So I've sort of gotten to a point in my life where I only wear one-pieces. It doesn't mean I have given up on life or succumb to aging. It is just so much easier to manage in the water. There isn't the perpetual surf panty pull-up after every wave [if you know what I mean ladies..] and any embarrassing peep shows. Thank goodness one-pieces are trendy and I don't have [ashamedly.. secretly] search the internet for Speedo brand on sale or anything like that. And thank goodness for Gypsea's Cockatoo One-Piece. It is a one-piece and I feel sexy in it. Sometimes less skin is more. For me anyway.
Fun-sized waves and a traje de baño. Ah yes. Summer has been good so far. Don't be shy el niño season.. bring on the swell!!
Freak Swells are always welcomed.