These photos almost got lost in the bottomless photo vault never to be seen again. This month has been so hectic I feel like I don't ever have any internet and/or photo-leisure time. I had to force myself to stay up in the wee hours of the morning in order to spend some quality time shuffling through my "fun" photos.
In the process I came up with a new term.. or I think I came up with it. It's a play off of another word anyway.* Wavefarer: a person who travels from place to place usually by surfing. It's romanticizing the relationship between human and wave. An adventurous love affair with the ocean. I think I am going to induct this into my everyday vocabulary from now on.
But it's true. There is something very beautiful about the sport [or in my case.. art] of surfing. It's a symbiotic relationship between a human being and the biggest body of water in the world. The largest, most unknown mass of of anything. Waves are just the worlds way of communicating to us. Does that make surfers good listeners [or does that just make me sound like a major hippie??] Yeah, it's corny. But I don't think a tennis court or swimming pool could ever do that. You know?
I could never give up my love for surfing and being in the ocean. I've actually thought about it. If I were to go blind or have a close call with a predator of the sea.. I could only hope I had the courage to get back in. Because life without it is a little unmanageable. Even during long summers and wave droughts.
Wavefarer. A wave traveler.
*after I wrote this I looked it up. I am definitely not original. Patagonia has already come up with a board short named wavefarer. I'm sure they've already have a trademark on it too. Dang. New terminology and word trend is not my forte.