It's been a sparse existence for my blog lately. I haven't been feeling that in to it. I've had a ton of other projects going on and pouring a lot of my creativity into them. So much so that I haven't had a lot of time or creativity left to put into my baby. But now I am feeling it again and going to make it a point to put it all out there. I need my own space back. This is it.
More importantly, thank goodness for random swells in the summer.
We've been getting a couple unexpected ones on the North Shore and I don't think anyone's complaining! With the surf came perfect conditions and some of the best vibes in the lineup. The waves have been in perfect timing too.. since there have also been a handful of swells in town. We pretty much knew everyone in the lineup. And if we didn't, we sent them in. Haha, nah nah! Kidding.
I got my fair share of waves and camera time too.
Actually, I was surfing out in Waikiki a while back and started a conversation with this longboard kid. When he found out I lived on the North Shore he said something along the lines of, "I just surfed out at Chuns and WOW! The girls out there rip! There was a girl on every single wave perched on the nose!"
Myself excluded, I have to agree! There are some talented, beautiful girls in the lineup. Which makes it so easy to capture. We live in such a beautiful place. The people included. I couldn't ask for a better way to spend my July then being on this island, watching these beautiess, on these perfect little peelers.